Discussion in 'Table Top' started by The-Mad-Magos, Apr 7, 2015.
Wow, didn't notice Magnus had an eye in his hand.
Decided the get myself some TS units (never played TT)
Kicked the suggested build variants in the bin and made my own versions.
Not bad for a first timer I say, fucked up a little with the shoulder pads.
No one uses suggested builds lol.
Have noticed the one on his belt and the eye on the outside of each of his Cuisse (thigh armour).
That's at least 5 eyes he has.
You've got the modelling technique of having the hips and shoulders moving in opposite directions for a moving figure.
Do you need any tips on removing the mouldlines and sprue bits, as well as filling in gaps?
Well, as I'm still pretty green behind my ears I would guess so; any tips are welcome.
He's got 7, 1 on each wing 1 on each leg pad 1 on his bel, 1 in his hand and 1 on his face.
And people wonder why he's got such a high ballistic skill!
The easiest way to remove models from sprues is to snip them off.
Though there specialist clipping tools for this, even common wire snips are quite useful.
But you will probably end up with a bump or a divot where the sprue attached to the model.
Bumps can be filed down with small files, such as ratfiles, that can be found in most DIY/Tool stores. Though there are specialist Craft Files you can get.
Divots need to be either filed in, or turned into armour damage.
Mouldlines are where the two halves of the mould meet and leave a ridge on the model, best way to get rid of them is to scrape them off, though you can gently file them off.
There are special tools for scraping, but the older method is just to use a craftknife.
Both specialist tools and craftknives tend to use the same technique, you hold the blade of the tool at about 45 degrees to the mouldline with the back of the blade pointing in the direction of the scrape.
You're best to pull the scrape towards you rather than pushing it away.
One or two passes gets rid of mouldlines.
There are a couple of techniques for use with gaps, holes and divots.
Gaps between limbs and bodies can be filled in using pieces of the same type of plastic, such as chunks of sprue. You can also use a substance called plasticard, which also the same type of plastic, and is available from rail-model shops, craft stores, and online (there's also patterned sheets that can be good for using on bases).
You cut a piece and glue into place, before or after the limb is glued, plus polystyrene cement can soften the plasticard enough that you can mould it slightly and fill the gap better.
An alternative with gaps, holes, and divots is to use a compound for filling, like Plastic Putty, Greenstuff/Greystuff/Milliput (two-part epoxy putty's), or even Liquid Greenstuff.
Each has there own qualities and uses, plus can be used to create modelling effects.
But you will need a sculpting tool to use them, like GW's own or wax sculpting tools available at craft/tool stores.
With small holes and divots you can turn them into battle damage with some careful small cuts from a craftknife, to make it look like a shell has impacted or pentrated the upper layers of armour and blown off a chunk.
You can even drill small holes/divots with a pinvice and then use a craftknife to turn them into such damage.
More advanced techniques include pegging (using plastic or metal rods within a joint to strengthen it), repositioning, and even scratchbuilding.
He's BS7 even...